What is surfing for me?
The last seven years of my life I had just one goal: get better at surfing.
Besides this, I travelled the whole time along the european coast and the canaries. I was living 3 years in my DIY van.
My relationship
to surfing
When I first met you, I thought you were the most satisfying and adrenalinpumping thing I met in my life.
But soon I realized that you are bitch.
In the first phase of our relationship, you let me make a lot of progress in a short amount of time and showed me how nice it is to enjoy the time with my friends in the water.
We had an amazing time in Indonesia and felt super in love.
Then, my ambition got stronger.
I always knew I didn’t want to lose you but you pissed me off more and more. Already in the morning at first light you were telling me my body is too straight, my positioning was not on point, my timing was not perfect. I realized, that I felt more frustration than joy and peace. It was no longer about the beauty of nature you showed me, about freedom or spending time with my mates. Everything that occupied me at that time were shitty turns, bad shoulders, no spray, sloppy waves and so on.
What I´ve learnt from surfing
But soon I understood: As in every good relationship, there are good and there are bad times. So I just learnt a really important lesson.
No matter where you are or what you do, as long as you hack the shit out of that lip, everything is fine.
Joking :)
There will always be those dreamy days where everything turns out right. Where the waves are perfect, your movements are on point and where you experience moments that you will dream about for many nights to come.
But also in the bad times, onshore conditions, full lineups - It’s to appreciate the time you have with your friends in the ocean. It’s the long talks about better days, perfect conditions, the dreaming about this one perfect wave.
It’s about sharing our love for surfing and telling us about our passion in a nice beachbar, where we’re all just celebrating the moment together.
Because in the end, it's those moments, that make each ones life so special. So let's create a story together!